Unlike its firmer cousins in the frittata family, the best tortilla española has a soft, almost custardy center. Doing it right involves plenty of olive oil and one daring flip. Cue "this is how we do it."
Step 1
When the bottom of the tortilla and the outer edges are set, it’s time to flip. Run a spatula around the edge to loosen it and get ready to do the deed (by that, I mean flipping it!).
Step 2
Set a large plate or flat lid over the skillet (one that’s slightly larger than the pan). In one swift (confident!) motion, invert the tortilla onto the plate.
Step 3
Put the pan back on the burner and carefully slide tortilla in, cooked side up. If it's not perfect, no sweat. Just use a spatula to tuck in the edges to reform a rounded appearance.
Tortilla española Recipe
Ingredients
4 cups olive oil
10 medium yukon gold potatoes (about 3 lb.)
1 large white onion (walla walla or spanish onions work best)
kosher salt
12 free-range eggs
Directions
Place a large dutch oven over low heat and slowly warm the olive oil. While the oil is warming, peel the potatoes and slice them thinly (about 1/8 inch thick). Raise the heat to medium and place a slice of potato in the warmed oil.
Once the potato slice starts to bubble, carefully add the rest of the potatoes, separating the slices as you go. Adjust the heat so that the potatoes continue cooking at a gentle simmer and stir occasionally to prevent the slices from sticking. While the potatoes are cooking, slice the onion in half, then lengthwise into thin slices.
When the potatoes are still al dente, but starting to soften up (about 10 minutes), add in the onion. Continue cooking until the potatoes are completely cooked through and the onions are translucent. When in doubt, err on the side of overcooking the potatoes - you don’t want to bite into anything starchy or raw! Once the potatoes and onions are ready, another 25 minutes, strain them over a colander placed over a heat proof bowl. Set the oil aside for now. A few steps later you’ll need it! And the rest can be saved in the fridge, stored in a glass mason jar, for future use - say for a vinaigrette.
Put the potatoes and onions in a large bowl, salt to taste, and toss to mix. Let the mixture cool slightly. While it’s still warm, not piping hot, break the eggs directly into the bowl holding the potato mixture. No need to pre-break the eggs and whisk, just mix the eggs, potatoes, and onions well with a wooden spoon until all the yolks are broken and combined. Season additionally with salt. It may need more salt that you think you’d need - you are cooking a dozen eggs.
Place a 12-inch cast iron skillet or fry pan over high heat. Add back enough of the reserved oil to cover the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot, pour the potato-egg mixture into the skillet. Immediately reduce the heat to medium-low and shake the pan. Using a rubber spatula, go around the entire skillet, pushing the sides of the tortilla in, forming a nice even shape. As the eggs begin to set, repeat as necessary to both shape the tortilla and ensure it isn’t sticking to the pan.
Once the edges of the tortilla are set, about 20 to 30 minutes, flip the tortilla. This may seem daunting, but once you get a good grip on the pan and have a dish or lid to flip onto, it’s easy as pie. Find a flat large lid or plate (one that’s larger than the circumference of the skillet), place the lid or dish on top of the skillet and flip the tortilla onto the lid or dish. Place the skillet back onto the burner and slide the tortilla back into the pan to finish cooking off the other side. Again, you'll want to go around the tortilla with the spatula, gently shaping it into a round, even form. Cook the tortilla on low for 5 minutes longer and then turn the heat off. Let the tortilla set 5 minutes more and then flip the tortilla onto the serving platter.
Cut into wedges, just as you would a cake, and serve.
Serves 10-12

